This page is the export of my grok climbing database.
Location | Crag | Route | PublishedRating | ratingsystem | item5 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Virginia, USA | Annapolis Rocks | Black Crack | 5.8 | YDS | 10.06.02 |
Virginia, USA | Annapolis Rocks | Don't Fear the Reaper (?) | 5.5 | YDS | 10.06.02 |
Virginia, USA | Annapolis Rocks | Black Crack | 5.8 | YDS | 10.06.02 |
Location | Crag | Route | 5c | FR | 27.07.07 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Debeli kuk | Slovenski (PIPS) | 4a | FR | 2.02.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Debeli kuk | Slovenski (PIPS) | 5c | FR | 3.02.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Figa | mann oder memme | 4b | FR | 2.02.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Figa | figa | 4b | FR | 2.02.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Near Trapps | Yum Yum Gob | 5.3 | YDS | 27.05.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Trapps | Classic | 5.6 | YDS | 26.05.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Trapps | Hawk | 5.5 | YDS | 26.05.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Trapps | Airy Aria | 5.8 | YDS | 27.05.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Trapps | Bonnie | 5.8 | YDS | 27.05.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Trapps | Bunny | 5.4 | YDS | 27.05.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Trapps | CCK Direct | 5.9 | YDS | 8.09.02 |
New York, USA | Gunks, Trapps | Madame G's | 5.6 | YDS | 8.09.02 |
California, USA | Joshua Tree | Beginner's 3 | 5.3 | YDS | 9.03.02 |
California, USA | Joshua Tree, Indian Cove | Squat Rockets | 5.4 | YDS | 7.03.02 |
California, USA | Joshua Tree, Indian Cove | The Reverend | 5.8 | YDS | 7.03.02 |
California, USA | Joshua Tree, Indian Cove/Willit | The Flare | 5.4 | YDS | 7.03.02 |
California, USA | Joshua Tree, Lost Horse | The Swift | 5.7 | YDS | 8.03.02 |
Liboje, Slovenia | Kotechnik | 16.10.02 | |||
Paklenica, Croatia | Kukovi ispod vlake--Jug stijena (south face) | Spit Bull | 6a | FR | 16.03.02 |
Virginia, USA | Maryland Rocks | The Hard Way | 5.7 | YDS | 28.04.02 |
Virginia, USA | Maryland Rocks | unnamed pillar | YDS | 28.04.02 | |
Virginia, USA | Maryland Rocks | unnamed pillar | YDS | 28.04.02 | |
Okic, Croatia | Modec | rotten.com | 5a | FR | 21.10.02 |
Virginia, USA | Seneca Rocks, South Wall | Ecstacy | 5.7 | YDS | 5.08.02 |
Virginia, USA | Seneca Rocks, South Wall | THAIS | 5.5 | YDS | 5.08.02 |
Virginia, USA | Seneca Rocks, South Wall West | Green Wall | 5.7 | YDS | 7.03.02 |
Virginia, USA | Seneca Rocks, South Wall West | Prune | 5.7 | YDS | 31.03.02 |
Virginia, USA | Seneca Rocks, South Wall West | Banana | 5.6 | YDS | 31.03.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Shogooth | Zima | 5c | FR | 16.03.02 |
Okic, Croatia | Soranja i kamin | Spranja | 5a | FR | 21.10.02 |
Okic, Croatia | Soranja i kamin | Kamin | 5a | FR | 21.10.02 |
Kalnik, Croatia | Stari Grad | Blizanac I | 4b | FR | 11.11.02 |
Kalnik, Croatia | Stari Grad | Rambo | 5a | FR | 11.11.02 |
Kalnik, Croatia | Stari Grad | Bezimeni | 5c | FR | 11.11.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Veliki Cuk | Tinkara | 6 | FR | 17.03.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Zava | matane ti si car! | 5c | FR | 2.02.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Zava | matane ti si car! | 5c | FR | 16.03.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Zava | Marina | 6a | FR | 16.03.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Zava | Zava | 4b | FR | 16.03.02 |
Paklenica, Croatia | Zava | Zava | 4b | FR | 16.03.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 10.06.02 |
Crag: | Annapolis Rocks |
Route: | Black Crack |
type: | toprope |
PublishedRating: | 5.8 |
myrating: | 5.8 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Partners: | Geoff Deutsch |
Weather: | 75 |
item10: | Fun crack. Hung at one spot repeatedly. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 10.06.02 |
Crag: | Annapolis Rocks |
Route: | Don't Fear the Reaper (?) |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5.5 |
myrating: | 5.4 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 80 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:45 |
Partners: | Geoff Deutsch |
Weather: | 75 |
item10: | About 150' right of Faint's Roof. Large ledge about 20' above the ground (level with the trail leading from Faint's Roof). Anchor at a tree at the base. Follow a right-facing weakness to the ledge. Move left under the roof. Crux--about 5.5, but hard to place pro after leaving the ledge to protect against a fall to the ledge. Got in a good #.5 tricam. Hard to protect from a so-so stance (easy to remain still, hard to move) after the first bulge. Used #7 hex, but a #3.5 or 4 cam would have been better. Move up over a series of bulges. Belay from the exposed block at the top. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 10.06.02 |
Crag: | Annapolis Rocks |
Route: | Black Crack |
type: | toprope |
PublishedRating: | 5.8 |
myrating: | 5.8 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Partners: | Geoff Deutsch |
Weather: | 75 |
item10: | Fun crack. Hung at one spot repeatedly. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Location |
item5: | 27.07.07 |
Crag: | Crag |
Route: | Route |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5c |
myrating: | my rating |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 100 |
Pitches: | 2 pch |
item6: | 00:00 |
Partners: | partners |
Weather: | weather |
item10: | notes |
ModDate: | 24.02.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 2.02.02 |
Crag: | Debeli kuk |
Route: | Slovenski (PIPS) |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 4a |
myrating: | 5.8 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 55 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 01:15 |
Partners: | Marc Tasovac |
Weather: | foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun |
item10: | led 1st pitch of "slovenski (pips)" 4a slab, 55m+ couldn't commit to friction moves to 2nd bolt (crux). took too long (1:00+) we retreated off pitch @ 1st anchor (left 2x lockers & sling) to retrieve next day |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 3.02.02 |
Crag: | Debeli kuk |
Route: | Slovenski (PIPS) |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 5c |
myrating: | 5.10b |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 120 |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 04:00 |
Partners: | Marc Tasovac |
Weather: | foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun, fog on/off all day |
item10: | Return to PIPS Marc led 1st (slab) pitch I led 2nd (chimney/groove/off-width thrash) 5c pitch--many hangs (and pulling on gear), no falls Run-out/bolted, stemming +thin face +crack, few moves with any sequence (one stem + big step up, then a thin face move, then another stem, then a brief jam w. one hand and stemming, etc.) Marc led 3rd pitch I couldn't get started on 4th pitch--many tries, down climbing 2 factor-2 falls (~4m) before the 1st bolt. We bailed... |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 2.02.02 |
Crag: | Figa |
Route: | mann oder memme |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 4b |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 25 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Marc Tasovac |
Weather: | foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun |
item10: | Bolts missing above 1st pitch (later found that upper pitches were closed) Amazing weather for Feb. 1st trip to Palkenica |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 2.02.02 |
Crag: | Figa |
Route: | figa |
type: | toprope |
PublishedRating: | 4b |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 25 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Marc Tasovac |
Weather: | foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun |
item10: | Marc led, poor belay/rap station @ the end of the first pitch. I top-roped to follow/clean. Bolts above 1st anchors have been removed. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 27.05.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Near Trapps |
Route: | Yum Yum Gob |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5.3 |
myrating: | 5.6 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 01:15 |
Partners: | Pete Grant |
Weather: | 70, mist. |
item10: | The low-angle friction and pinches pitch 1 was much harder than rated when wet. Did just pitch 1 due to lack of time (I was slow, and slow, slow, slow in setting up the anchor). |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 26.05.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Trapps |
Route: | Classic |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.6 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 00:02 |
Partners: | Pete Grant |
Weather: | 60, misty, rainy, cold at the top. |
item10: | A wet and ugly Labor Day weekend...however there was almost no one at the Crag! |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 26.05.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Trapps |
Route: | Hawk |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5.5 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 250 |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 03:00 |
Partners: | Jim Kelly |
Weather: | 70, misty at start, rainy by finish |
item10: | Very hard (mentally) to commit to crux traverse in the rain--didn't trust my feet. Lots of rope drag on pitch 2. Pitch 3 doesn't seem to get as much traffic, harder to find the route (less "wear"). Walked off. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 27.05.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Trapps |
Route: | Airy Aria |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.8 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 65 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 02:30 |
Partners: | Pete Grant |
Weather: | misty at start, rainy by finish. |
item10: | Only did first pitch--overhung, so it's sheltered from the rain. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 27.05.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Trapps |
Route: | Bonnie |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.8 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 02:00 |
Partners: | Pete Grant |
Weather: | 70, misty. |
item10: | Did the 5.7(!?) variation under the root at the start of pitch 3, not the 5.9+ direct finish over the roof. The face was almost dry, but the cracks were wet and slimey, with the key footholds quite wet. I hung on the rope to clean gear at the crux just below the crux. Nice hanging belay with an ugly mess of slings for a rap station/temporary anchor from which to build a real anchor. The traverse at the start of pitch 3 was hard to start--it's a delicate, very exposed traverse about 15~20' long with a move around the corner to the face. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 27.05.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Trapps |
Route: | Bunny |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5.4 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 01:15 |
Partners: | Pete Grant |
Weather: | 70, clearing. |
item10: | The rock was wet, wet, wet. Did just pitch 1 (skipped the 5.1 P2). |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 8.09.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Trapps |
Route: | CCK Direct |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.9 |
myrating: | 5.10+ |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 2 |
Partners: | Graham Williams |
Weather: | beautiful, warm, sunny |
item10: | Tough route. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | New York, USA |
item5: | 8.09.02 |
Crag: | Gunks, Trapps |
Route: | Madame G's |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5.6 |
myrating: | 5.10+ |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 03:30 |
Partners: | Graham Williams |
Weather: | beautiful, warm, sunny...then dark! |
item10: | Good lead...some nice placements. Led on double ropes for the first time. Ran P1 and P2 together, but I should have built better anchor in place of the manky hanging belay or run P2 & P3 together. I was slow, and then Graham re-built the anchor at the start of P3. I led P3 in the dark, by headlamp (trying to find the route, hurry, and place pieces that Graham would be able to clean!). Exciting, beautiful, utterly exposed full-rope-length (double ropes) free rappel in the dark. Stunning, but not something to seek out and repeat! |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | California, USA |
item5: | 9.03.02 |
Crag: | Joshua Tree |
Route: | Beginner's 3 |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5.3 |
myrating: | 5.3 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 50 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:35 |
Partners: | Bean Lucas |
Weather: | Windy, chilly, about 55 |
item10: | First lead! Reasonable job, very slow setting up the anchor. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | California, USA |
item5: | 7.03.02 |
Crag: | Joshua Tree, Indian Cove |
Route: | Squat Rockets |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.4 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 50 |
Pitches: | 1 |
Partners: | Bean Lucas |
Weather: | 50 degrees, light sporadic rain. |
item10: | Warm-up climb, first with Bean. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | California, USA |
item5: | 7.03.02 |
Crag: | Joshua Tree, Indian Cove |
Route: | The Reverend |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.8 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 75 |
Pitches: | 1 |
Partners: | Bean Lucas |
Weather: | 50 degrees, light sporadic rain. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | California, USA |
item5: | 7.03.02 |
Crag: | Joshua Tree, Indian Cove/Willit |
Route: | The Flare |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.4 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 50 |
Pitches: | 1 |
Partners: | Bean Lucas |
Weather: | 55 degrees |
item10: | The surface crystals were much looser (sandy) than at Billboard Buttress. The climb ended at a short, offwidth crack in the rounded boulder (about 10' high) at the top, but the interior surface of the crack was too loose. I used the 3 or 4 chipped "step" holds to the right to top out. Nice free-rappel at sunset to the back of the formation. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | California, USA |
item5: | 8.03.02 |
Crag: | Joshua Tree, Lost Horse |
Route: | The Swift |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.7 |
myrating: | 5.9+ |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 50 |
Pitches: | 2.5 |
item6: | 05:00 |
Partners: | Bean Lucas |
Weather: | Sunny, north facing, 70, but hotter in the sun. |
item10: | Got off-route, crossed onto "Bird on a Wire" (5.10a). The transition between the two routes was definetly 5.10a tough. It was a short (~10') vertical crack about 45 meters into the second pitch. The third pitch was really just a 5.easy scramble to the top. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Liboje, Slovenia |
item5: | 16.10.02 |
Crag: | Kotechnik |
Partners: | Graham Williams Katja Podergajs |
Weather: | Sunny. Warm. Beautiful. |
item10: | Beautiful spot. The sun came through the trees with a green cast from the leaves. The rock was beautiful looking, but didn't have great friction or stability. http://come.to/freeclimbing_si/ |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 16.03.02 |
Crag: | Kukovi ispod vlake--Jug stijena (south face) |
Route: | Spit Bull |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 6a |
myrating: | 5.9 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 145 |
Pitches: | 5 |
item6: | 04:00 |
Partners: | Klatsko |
Weather: | sunny, warm, ~19c |
item10: | Klatsko led P1, P3, P5 I led P2, P4 Increadibly sharp limestone edges in water grooves--almost difficult to mantle w. flat hands because of sharpness! P1: 5c (felt like ~5.8). P2: 5b (~5.8) P3: 4a short traverse/downclimb over top of 1st ridge to "back side" (N. face)--sort of P4 of Nosorog we skipped the long downclimb (P4, grade 3) and P5 (5c) P4: 6a exposed traverse to chimmney/undercling to resume normal route tough to get into route from traverse--overhanging, no feet, etc. from traverse into chimmney I got off route (on a sport climb!) and didn't move far enough left--went up an ugly chimmney/groove w. too much loose stone back onto route, got to anchors while to was getting dark P5: 4c(?) short traverse/downclimb to rap anchors Descended in the dark over talus field (I had headlamp). |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 28.04.02 |
Crag: | Maryland Rocks |
Route: | The Hard Way |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.7 |
myrating: | 5.7 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 2 |
Partners: | Jim Kelly |
Weather: | 65 |
item10: | Tough first move or two from the start, slightly tricky getting around a boulder midway through pitch 1. Linked first two pitches. Slightly off-route in 2nd pitch onto "Hard Up" (5.8). |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 28.04.02 |
Crag: | Maryland Rocks |
Route: | unnamed pillar |
type: | tradfollow |
myrating: | 5.5 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 55 |
Pitches: | 1 |
Partners: | Jim Kelly |
Weather: | 70 |
item10: | Went off into the woods looking for the "Hairy" route. Headed about 250' up-river of "D", past the gully. Scramble down a dirty/thorny slope to the base of the pillar. Alternatively, take the path down the lower slope from "C". The pillar is about 5' in diameter at the top. It can be slung with a ~triple shoulder-length sling for rapping off. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 28.04.02 |
Crag: | Maryland Rocks |
Route: | unnamed pillar |
type: | tradlead |
myrating: | 5.5 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
heightunits: | ft |
Height: | 55 |
Pitches: | 1 |
Partners: | Jim Kelly |
Weather: | 70 |
item10: | Same climb, I led after following Jim and then rapping off. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Okic, Croatia |
item5: | 21.10.02 |
Crag: | Modec |
Route: | rotten.com |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 5a |
myrating: | 5.9 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 23 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Dubravko Vukmirovic <dubravko@storm.hr> <dubravko.vukmirovic@zg.tel.hr> <dvukmir@jagor.srce.hr> |
Weather: | Nice and sunny on the hike in, then a spot of rain at the mountain hut. The rest of the day threatened rain, but it remained clear. |
item10: | Tough start--it is a new route (the route setter was working the next climb over) and there was a planned chipped/artifical hold that wasn't placed yet. The start after the first clip, but a definite ground fall) goes into a small alcove (it's too small to be a cave) and then the next clip is reaching out, up, and around left to get "out". Making the clip is harder than the climbing moves. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 5.08.02 |
Crag: | Seneca Rocks, South Wall |
Route: | Ecstacy |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.7 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 02:00 |
Partners: | Jeff Deutsch |
Weather: | 80 |
item10: | Great location, good exposure, few (no?) 5.7 moves until pitch 3. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 5.08.02 |
Crag: | Seneca Rocks, South Wall |
Route: | THAIS |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 5.5 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 03:30 |
Partners: | Jeff Deutsch |
Weather: | 82, rain during pitch 1. |
item10: | Took too long to decide where the route really was. The off-hands crack lead to a great chimmney in pitch 1. Got off-route at the start of pitch 2, moved right onto the face after the crack. Did not summit (got too dark!), rapped from the tree about 30' below the summit, but it was too far for a 1x60m rap to the next station. Had to down-climb and scramble to the second station. Good news: I had a headlamp, Bad news| I left my regular glasses in my pack (at the base) and was wearing sunglasses in the dark. Left the parking lot at about 9:30pm. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 7.03.02 |
Crag: | Seneca Rocks, South Wall West |
Route: | Green Wall |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.7 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 02:00 |
Partners: | Pete Grant Jim Kelly (led) |
Weather: | 55, light wind. |
item10: | Fun layback crack on 2nd pitch. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 31.03.02 |
Crag: | Seneca Rocks, South Wall West |
Route: | Prune |
type: | tradfollow |
PublishedRating: | 5.7 |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Pitches: | 3 |
item6: | 02:00 |
Partners: | Pete Grant (led) Jim Kelly |
Weather: | 55, misty, light wind. |
item10: | The weather looked lousy during the drive from Alexandria--lots of rain. We killed time by having a (lousy) breakfast, by which point the sun was coming out. The rock was damp from previous rain, but dried as we rose. However, the wind picked up... I think Pete got slightly off-route at the top and into a short section of off-width hand and arm cracks. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Virginia, USA |
item5: | 31.03.02 |
Crag: | Seneca Rocks, South Wall West |
Route: | Banana |
type: | 1.01.70 |
PublishedRating: | 5.6 |
myrating: | 5.7+ |
ratingsystem: | YDS |
Height: | 45 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Pete Grant (belayed) Jim Kelly (followed) |
Weather: | 55, light wind. |
item10: | Led on Pete's rack. Wanted smaller nuts (or more aliens). Poor form, and I got a lot of beta to move past the loose blocks and (almost) dyno for the hidden holds (completely out of sight above a lip) at the crux. Maybe a 5.6 top-rope, but it felt much harder on lead. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 16.03.02 |
Crag: | Shogooth |
Route: | Zima |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 5c |
myrating: | 5.9 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 20 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Ivana belayed(?) |
Weather: | sunny, warm, ~19c |
item10: | thin face climbing...mono pockets w. balancy moves near top. I expected to fall...didn't |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Okic, Croatia |
item5: | 21.10.02 |
Crag: | Soranja i kamin |
Route: | Spranja |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 5a |
myrating: | 5.9 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 15 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Dubravko Vukmirovic <dubravko@storm.hr> <dubravko.vukmirovic@zg.tel.hr> <dvukmir@jagor.srce.hr> |
Weather: | Nice and sunny on the hike in, then a spot of rain at the mountain hut. The rest of the day threatened rain, but it remained clear. |
item10: | Off-width (arm-bar size, rarely fist jam) crack, getting irregular @ top. Fun. Great rock texture, feels very stable (could be lead trad?). |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Okic, Croatia |
item5: | 21.10.02 |
Crag: | Soranja i kamin |
Route: | Kamin |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 5a |
myrating: | 5.9 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 15 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Dubravko Vukmirovic <dubravko@storm.hr> <dubravko.vukmirovic@zg.tel.hr> <dvukmir@jagor.srce.hr> |
Weather: | Nice and sunny on the hike in, then a spot of rain at the mountain hut. The rest of the day threatened rain, but it remained clear. |
item10: | The crack opposite Spranja. Larger crack, more features deep inside. Much less direct. Rusty piton about 4/5 up as a clip before the crux(!). Spent much too long on the overhang to make the last clip, got tired and out of form, but didn't weight the rope. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Kalnik, Croatia |
item5: | 11.11.02 |
Crag: | Stari Grad |
Route: | Blizanac I |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 4b |
myrating: | 5.5 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 20 |
Partners: | Climbing club |
Weather: | 35 degrees (f), foggy/misty, snow on the ground, but no precipitation. |
item10: | Muddy in spots, reachy @ top. Led with pre-placed draws. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Kalnik, Croatia |
item5: | 11.11.02 |
Crag: | Stari Grad |
Route: | Rambo |
type: | toprope |
PublishedRating: | 5a |
myrating: | 5.7 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 12 |
Partners: | Climbing club |
Weather: | 35 degrees (f), foggy/misty, snow on the ground, but no precipitation. |
item10: | Nice route. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Kalnik, Croatia |
item5: | 11.11.02 |
Crag: | Stari Grad |
Route: | Bezimeni |
type: | toprope |
PublishedRating: | 5c |
myrating: | 5.9 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 16 |
Partners: | Climbing club |
Weather: | 35 degrees (f), foggy/misty, snow on the ground, but no precipitation. |
item10: | Cold at the top. Fun route, cracks to balancy slab moves at the top. |
ModDate: | 23.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 17.03.02 |
Crag: | Veliki Cuk |
Route: | Tinkara |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 6 |
myrating: | 5.9 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 300 |
Pitches: | 6 |
item6: | 04:30 |
Partners: | Klatsko |
Weather: | sunny, warm, ~19c |
item10: | Klatsko led P1, P3, P5 I led P2, P4, P6 Possibly 2nd ascent of route? P2 (~5a)--easiest to do roped simul-scramble across scree between P1 and start of P2 (~25m). route finding...avoid the thorn bushes in the grooves--pick the correct crack--work up and left slightly P4 (6-, ~5.9)--well protected, exposed traverse left to base of dihedral/crack system I had difficultly getting into crack--ended up doing thin face climbing up/right towards Giorgia route, about 5+m above/right of last pro in traverse--then moved left on ramp into dihedral hard to get any pro until at crack w/in dihedral (~3m along ramp). Slow in this section. dihedral/crack--easily protected, easy-fun (5.7+) climbing. above crack--exposed traverse right into large water groove--protect w. large (#4?) friend @ top of groove before moving up/out to exposed face climbing (good foot holds--like shoes!) to belay under tree in rounded pocket. P5 (5b?) short, up grooves toward top as peak flattens out. Nice cracks. P6 (4a) Poorly defined scrambling/climbing--friction slabs w. very little pro--3 pieces in 45m--toward link up w. Circus route Descent--small rap down to join Circus (left webbing, but well hidden). Long walk/scramble/5.4 downclimb into Anica Cuk gully. Next time...don't do downclimb in hiking boots while wearing pack! Almost as tough as the crux pitch--and worse fall potential! |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 2.02.02 |
Crag: | Zava |
Route: | matane ti si car! |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 5c |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 12 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Marc Tasovac |
Weather: | foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun |
item10: | no falls, two hangs good, thin, smeary route hard, but fun |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 16.03.02 |
Crag: | Zava |
Route: | matane ti si car! |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 5c |
myrating: | 5.9+ |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 12 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Branimir |
Weather: | sunny, warm, ~19c |
item10: | multiple falls @ crux first(!) "warm up" climb after overnight bus ride w. Velebit, ~3hrs fitful sleep on the bus. The crux is a delicate boulder move/weight shift (at least for someone my height). |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 16.03.02 |
Crag: | Zava |
Route: | Marina |
type: | toprope |
PublishedRating: | 6a |
myrating: | 5.9+ |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 12 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Branimir |
Weather: | sunny, warm, ~19c |
item10: | Easier--and quite different--than adjacent "Matane ti si car!" |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 16.03.02 |
Crag: | Zava |
Route: | Zava |
type: | sportlead |
PublishedRating: | 4b |
myrating: | 5.6 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 13 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | ? |
Weather: | sunny, warm, ~19c |
item10: | easy route...did it to keep warmed up...nice rythm |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |
Location: | Paklenica, Croatia |
item5: | 16.03.02 |
Crag: | Zava |
Route: | Zava |
type: | tradlead |
PublishedRating: | 4b |
myrating: | 5.6 |
ratingsystem: | FR |
heightunits: | m |
Height: | 13 |
Pitches: | 1 |
item6: | 00:30 |
Partners: | Klatsko |
Weather: | sunny, warm, ~19c |
item10: | did it as a trad lead just to get a "refresher" on placing gear. Nothing special. |
ModDate: | 24.11.02 |