Climbing

This page was last updated Mon Apr 1 11:03:03 CEST 2002.

This page is the export of my grok climbing database.

Summary:

LocationCragRoutePublishedRatingratingsystemitem5
Virginia, USA Annapolis Rocks Black Crack 5.8 YDS 10.06.02 
Virginia, USA Annapolis Rocks Don't Fear the Reaper (?) 5.5 YDS 10.06.02 
Virginia, USA Annapolis Rocks Black Crack 5.8 YDS 10.06.02 
Location Crag Route 5c FR 27.07.07 
Paklenica, Croatia Debeli kuk Slovenski (PIPS) 4a FR  2.02.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Debeli kuk Slovenski (PIPS) 5c FR  3.02.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Figa mann oder memme 4b FR  2.02.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Figa figa 4b FR  2.02.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Near Trapps Yum Yum Gob 5.3 YDS 27.05.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Trapps Classic 5.6 YDS 26.05.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Trapps Hawk 5.5 YDS 26.05.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Trapps Airy Aria 5.8 YDS 27.05.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Trapps Bonnie 5.8 YDS 27.05.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Trapps Bunny 5.4 YDS 27.05.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Trapps CCK Direct 5.9 YDS  8.09.02 
New York, USA Gunks, Trapps Madame G's 5.6 YDS  8.09.02 
California, USA Joshua Tree Beginner's 3 5.3 YDS  9.03.02 
California, USA Joshua Tree, Indian Cove Squat Rockets 5.4 YDS  7.03.02 
California, USA Joshua Tree, Indian Cove The Reverend 5.8 YDS  7.03.02 
California, USA Joshua Tree, Indian Cove/Willit The Flare 5.4 YDS  7.03.02 
California, USA Joshua Tree, Lost Horse The Swift 5.7 YDS  8.03.02 
Liboje, Slovenia Kotechnik    16.10.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Kukovi ispod vlake--Jug stijena (south face) Spit Bull 6a FR 16.03.02 
Virginia, USA Maryland Rocks The Hard Way 5.7 YDS 28.04.02 
Virginia, USA Maryland Rocks unnamed pillar  YDS 28.04.02 
Virginia, USA Maryland Rocks unnamed pillar  YDS 28.04.02 
Okic, Croatia Modec rotten.com 5a FR 21.10.02 
Virginia, USA Seneca Rocks, South Wall Ecstacy 5.7 YDS  5.08.02 
Virginia, USA Seneca Rocks, South Wall THAIS 5.5 YDS  5.08.02 
Virginia, USA Seneca Rocks, South Wall West Green Wall 5.7 YDS  7.03.02 
Virginia, USA Seneca Rocks, South Wall West Prune 5.7 YDS 31.03.02 
Virginia, USA Seneca Rocks, South Wall West Banana 5.6 YDS 31.03.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Shogooth Zima 5c FR 16.03.02 
Okic, Croatia Soranja i kamin Spranja 5a FR 21.10.02 
Okic, Croatia Soranja i kamin Kamin 5a FR 21.10.02 
Kalnik, Croatia Stari Grad Blizanac I 4b FR 11.11.02 
Kalnik, Croatia Stari Grad Rambo 5a FR 11.11.02 
Kalnik, Croatia Stari Grad Bezimeni 5c FR 11.11.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Veliki Cuk Tinkara FR 17.03.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Zava matane ti si car! 5c FR  2.02.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Zava matane ti si car! 5c FR 16.03.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Zava Marina 6a FR 16.03.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Zava Zava 4b FR 16.03.02 
Paklenica, Croatia Zava Zava 4b FR 16.03.02 

Data

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:10.06.02
Crag:Annapolis Rocks
Route:Black Crack
type:toprope
PublishedRating:5.8
myrating:5.8
ratingsystem:YDS
Partners:Geoff Deutsch
Weather:75
item10:Fun crack. Hung at one spot repeatedly.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:10.06.02
Crag:Annapolis Rocks
Route:Don't Fear the Reaper (?)
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5.5
myrating:5.4
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:80
Pitches:1
item6:00:45
Partners:Geoff Deutsch
Weather:75
item10:About 150' right of Faint's Roof. Large ledge about 20' above the ground (level with the trail leading from Faint's Roof). Anchor at a tree at the base. Follow a right-facing weakness to the ledge.
Move left under the roof. Crux--about 5.5, but hard to place pro after leaving the ledge to protect against a fall to the ledge. Got in a good #.5 tricam. Hard to protect from a so-so stance (easy
to remain still, hard to move) after the first bulge. Used #7 hex, but a #3.5 or 4 cam would have been better.

Move up over a series of bulges. Belay from the exposed block at the top.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:10.06.02
Crag:Annapolis Rocks
Route:Black Crack
type:toprope
PublishedRating:5.8
myrating:5.8
ratingsystem:YDS
Partners:Geoff Deutsch
Weather:75
item10:Fun crack. Hung at one spot repeatedly.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Location
item5:27.07.07
Crag:Crag
Route:Route
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5c
myrating:my rating
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:100
Pitches:2 pch
item6:00:00
Partners:partners
Weather:weather
item10:notes
ModDate:24.02.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5: 2.02.02
Crag:Debeli kuk
Route:Slovenski (PIPS)
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:4a
myrating:5.8
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:55
Pitches:1
item6:01:15
Partners:Marc Tasovac
Weather:foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun
item10:led 1st pitch of "slovenski (pips)"
4a slab, 55m+
couldn't commit to friction moves to 2nd bolt (crux). took too long (1:00+)
we retreated off pitch @ 1st anchor (left 2x lockers & sling) to retrieve next day
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5: 3.02.02
Crag:Debeli kuk
Route:Slovenski (PIPS)
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:5c
myrating:5.10b
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:120
Pitches:3
item6:04:00
Partners:Marc Tasovac
Weather:foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun, fog on/off all day
item10:Return to PIPS

Marc led 1st (slab) pitch

I led 2nd (chimney/groove/off-width thrash) 5c pitch--many hangs (and pulling on gear), no falls
Run-out/bolted, stemming +thin face +crack, few moves with any sequence (one stem + big step up, then a thin face move, then
another stem, then a brief jam w. one hand and stemming, etc.)

Marc led 3rd pitch

I couldn't get started on 4th pitch--many tries, down climbing 2 factor-2 falls (~4m) before the 1st bolt.
We bailed...
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5: 2.02.02
Crag:Figa
Route:mann oder memme
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:4b
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:25
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Marc Tasovac
Weather:foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun
item10:Bolts missing above 1st pitch (later found that upper pitches were closed)

Amazing weather for Feb.

1st trip to Palkenica
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5: 2.02.02
Crag:Figa
Route:figa
type:toprope
PublishedRating:4b
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:25
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Marc Tasovac
Weather:foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun
item10:Marc led, poor belay/rap station @ the end of the first pitch. I top-roped to follow/clean.
Bolts above 1st anchors have been removed.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5:27.05.02
Crag:Gunks, Near Trapps
Route:Yum Yum Gob
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5.3
myrating:5.6
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Pitches:1
item6:01:15
Partners:Pete Grant
Weather:70, mist.
item10:The low-angle friction and pinches pitch 1 was much harder than rated when wet. Did just pitch 1 due to lack of time (I was slow, and slow, slow, slow in setting up the anchor).
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5:26.05.02
Crag:Gunks, Trapps
Route:Classic
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.6
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:3
item6:00:02
Partners:Pete Grant
Weather:60, misty, rainy, cold at the top.
item10:A wet and ugly Labor Day weekend...however there was almost no one at the Crag!
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5:26.05.02
Crag:Gunks, Trapps
Route:Hawk
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5.5
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:250
Pitches:3
item6:03:00
Partners:Jim Kelly
Weather:70, misty at start, rainy by finish
item10:Very hard (mentally) to commit to crux traverse in the rain--didn't trust my feet.
Lots of rope drag on pitch 2.

Pitch 3 doesn't seem to get as much traffic, harder to find the route (less "wear").

Walked off.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5:27.05.02
Crag:Gunks, Trapps
Route:Airy Aria
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.8
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:65
Pitches:1
item6:02:30
Partners:Pete Grant
Weather:misty at start, rainy by finish.
item10:Only did first pitch--overhung, so it's sheltered from the rain.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5:27.05.02
Crag:Gunks, Trapps
Route:Bonnie
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.8
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Pitches:1
item6:02:00
Partners:Pete Grant
Weather:70, misty.
item10:Did the 5.7(!?) variation under the root at the start of pitch 3, not the 5.9+ direct finish over the roof.

The face was almost dry, but the cracks were wet and slimey, with the key footholds quite wet.

I hung on the rope to clean gear at the crux just below the crux.

Nice hanging belay with an ugly mess of slings for a rap station/temporary anchor from which to build a real anchor.

The traverse at the start of pitch 3 was hard to start--it's a delicate, very exposed traverse about 15~20' long with a move around the corner
to the face.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5:27.05.02
Crag:Gunks, Trapps
Route:Bunny
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5.4
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Pitches:1
item6:01:15
Partners:Pete Grant
Weather:70, clearing.
item10:The rock was wet, wet, wet.
Did just pitch 1 (skipped the 5.1 P2).
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5: 8.09.02
Crag:Gunks, Trapps
Route:CCK Direct
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.9
myrating:5.10+
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:2
Partners:Graham Williams
Weather:beautiful, warm, sunny
item10:Tough route.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:New York, USA
item5: 8.09.02
Crag:Gunks, Trapps
Route:Madame G's
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5.6
myrating:5.10+
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:3
item6:03:30
Partners:Graham Williams
Weather:beautiful, warm, sunny...then dark!
item10:Good lead...some nice placements. Led on double ropes for the first time.

Ran P1 and P2 together, but I should have built better anchor in place of the manky hanging belay or run P2 & P3 together.
I was slow, and then Graham re-built the anchor at the start of P3. I led P3 in the dark, by headlamp (trying to find the route, hurry, and place pieces that Graham would be able
to clean!).

Exciting, beautiful, utterly exposed full-rope-length (double ropes) free rappel in the dark. Stunning, but not something to seek out and repeat!
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:California, USA
item5: 9.03.02
Crag:Joshua Tree
Route:Beginner's 3
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5.3
myrating:5.3
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:50
Pitches:1
item6:00:35
Partners:Bean Lucas
Weather:Windy, chilly, about 55
item10:First lead! Reasonable job, very slow setting up the anchor.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:California, USA
item5: 7.03.02
Crag:Joshua Tree, Indian Cove
Route:Squat Rockets
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.4
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:50
Pitches:1
Partners:Bean Lucas
Weather:50 degrees, light sporadic rain.
item10:Warm-up climb, first with Bean.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:California, USA
item5: 7.03.02
Crag:Joshua Tree, Indian Cove
Route:The Reverend
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.8
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:75
Pitches:1
Partners:Bean Lucas
Weather:50 degrees, light sporadic rain.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:California, USA
item5: 7.03.02
Crag:Joshua Tree, Indian Cove/Willit
Route:The Flare
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.4
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:50
Pitches:1
Partners:Bean Lucas
Weather:55 degrees
item10:The surface crystals were much looser (sandy) than at Billboard Buttress. The climb ended at a short, offwidth crack in the rounded boulder (about 10' high) at the top, but the
interior surface of the crack was too loose. I used the 3 or 4 chipped "step" holds to the right to top out. Nice free-rappel at sunset to the back of the formation.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:California, USA
item5: 8.03.02
Crag:Joshua Tree, Lost Horse
Route:The Swift
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.7
myrating:5.9+
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:50
Pitches:2.5
item6:05:00
Partners:Bean Lucas
Weather:Sunny, north facing, 70, but hotter in the sun.
item10:Got off-route, crossed onto "Bird on a Wire" (5.10a). The transition between the two routes was definetly 5.10a tough. It was a short (~10') vertical crack about 45 meters into the second pitch. The third pitch
was really just a 5.easy scramble to the top.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Liboje, Slovenia
item5:16.10.02
Crag:Kotechnik
Partners:Graham Williams
Katja Podergajs
Weather:Sunny. Warm. Beautiful.
item10:Beautiful spot. The sun came through the trees with a green cast from the leaves. The rock was beautiful looking, but didn't have great friction or stability.

http://come.to/freeclimbing_si/
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5:16.03.02
Crag:Kukovi ispod vlake--Jug stijena (south face)
Route:Spit Bull
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:6a
myrating:5.9
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:145
Pitches:5
item6:04:00
Partners:Klatsko
Weather:sunny, warm, ~19c
item10:Klatsko led P1, P3, P5
I led P2, P4
Increadibly sharp limestone edges in water grooves--almost difficult to mantle w. flat hands because of sharpness!
P1: 5c (felt like ~5.8).
P2: 5b (~5.8)
P3: 4a short traverse/downclimb over top of 1st ridge to "back side" (N. face)--sort of P4 of Nosorog
we skipped the long downclimb (P4, grade 3) and P5 (5c)
P4: 6a exposed traverse to chimmney/undercling to resume normal route
tough to get into route from traverse--overhanging, no feet, etc. from traverse into chimmney

I got off route (on a sport climb!) and didn't move far enough left--went up an ugly chimmney/groove w. too much loose stone
back onto route, got to anchors while to was getting dark
P5: 4c(?) short traverse/downclimb to rap anchors

Descended in the dark over talus field (I had headlamp).
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:28.04.02
Crag:Maryland Rocks
Route:The Hard Way
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.7
myrating:5.7
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:2
Partners:Jim Kelly
Weather:65
item10:Tough first move or two from the start, slightly tricky getting around a boulder midway through pitch 1.

Linked first two pitches. Slightly off-route in 2nd pitch onto "Hard Up" (5.8).
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:28.04.02
Crag:Maryland Rocks
Route:unnamed pillar
type:tradfollow
myrating:5.5
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:55
Pitches:1
Partners:Jim Kelly
Weather:70
item10:Went off into the woods looking for the "Hairy" route. Headed about 250' up-river of "D", past the gully.

Scramble down a dirty/thorny slope to the base of the pillar. Alternatively, take the path down the lower slope from "C".

The pillar is about 5' in diameter at the top. It can be slung with a ~triple shoulder-length sling for rapping off.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:28.04.02
Crag:Maryland Rocks
Route:unnamed pillar
type:tradlead
myrating:5.5
ratingsystem:YDS
heightunits:ft
Height:55
Pitches:1
Partners:Jim Kelly
Weather:70
item10:Same climb, I led after following Jim and then rapping off.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Okic, Croatia
item5:21.10.02
Crag:Modec
Route:rotten.com
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:5a
myrating:5.9
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:23
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Dubravko Vukmirovic
<dubravko@storm.hr>
<dubravko.vukmirovic@zg.tel.hr>
<dvukmir@jagor.srce.hr>
Weather:Nice and sunny on the hike in, then a spot of rain at the mountain hut. The rest of the day threatened
rain, but it remained clear.
item10:Tough start--it is a new route (the route setter was working the next climb over) and there was a planned chipped/artifical hold that wasn't placed yet. The start after the first clip, but a definite ground fall) goes
into a small alcove (it's too small to be a cave) and then the next clip is reaching out, up, and around left to get "out". Making the clip is harder than the climbing moves.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5: 5.08.02
Crag:Seneca Rocks, South Wall
Route:Ecstacy
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.7
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:3
item6:02:00
Partners:Jeff Deutsch
Weather:80
item10:Great location, good exposure, few (no?) 5.7 moves until pitch 3.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5: 5.08.02
Crag:Seneca Rocks, South Wall
Route:THAIS
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:5.5
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:3
item6:03:30
Partners:Jeff Deutsch
Weather:82, rain during pitch 1.
item10:Took too long to decide where the route really was. The off-hands crack lead to a great chimmney in pitch 1.

Got off-route at the start of pitch 2, moved right onto the face after the crack.

Did not summit (got too dark!), rapped from the tree about 30' below the summit, but it was too far for a 1x60m rap to the next
station. Had to down-climb and scramble to the second station. Good news: I had a headlamp, Bad news| I left my regular glasses
in my pack (at the base) and was wearing sunglasses in the dark. Left the parking lot at about 9:30pm.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5: 7.03.02
Crag:Seneca Rocks, South Wall West
Route:Green Wall
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.7
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:3
item6:02:00
Partners:Pete Grant
Jim Kelly (led)
Weather:55, light wind.
item10:Fun layback crack on 2nd pitch.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:31.03.02
Crag:Seneca Rocks, South Wall West
Route:Prune
type:tradfollow
PublishedRating:5.7
ratingsystem:YDS
Pitches:3
item6:02:00
Partners:Pete Grant (led)
Jim Kelly
Weather:55, misty, light wind.
item10:The weather looked lousy during the drive from Alexandria--lots of rain. We killed time by having a (lousy) breakfast, by which point the sun was coming out.

The rock was damp from previous rain, but dried as we rose. However, the wind picked up...

I think Pete got slightly off-route at the top and into a short section of off-width hand and arm cracks.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Virginia, USA
item5:31.03.02
Crag:Seneca Rocks, South Wall West
Route:Banana
type: 1.01.70
PublishedRating:5.6
myrating:5.7+
ratingsystem:YDS
Height:45
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Pete Grant (belayed)
Jim Kelly (followed)
Weather:55, light wind.
item10:Led on Pete's rack. Wanted smaller nuts (or more aliens). Poor form, and I got a lot of beta to move past the loose blocks and (almost) dyno for the hidden holds (completely out of sight above a
lip) at the crux. Maybe a 5.6 top-rope, but it felt much harder on lead.
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5:16.03.02
Crag:Shogooth
Route:Zima
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:5c
myrating:5.9
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:20
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Ivana belayed(?)
Weather:sunny, warm, ~19c
item10:thin face climbing...mono pockets w. balancy moves near top. I expected to fall...didn't
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Okic, Croatia
item5:21.10.02
Crag:Soranja i kamin
Route:Spranja
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:5a
myrating:5.9
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:15
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Dubravko Vukmirovic
<dubravko@storm.hr>
<dubravko.vukmirovic@zg.tel.hr>
<dvukmir@jagor.srce.hr>
Weather:Nice and sunny on the hike in, then a spot of rain at the mountain hut. The rest of the day threatened
rain, but it remained clear.
item10:Off-width (arm-bar size, rarely fist jam) crack, getting irregular @ top. Fun. Great rock texture, feels very stable (could be lead trad?).
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Okic, Croatia
item5:21.10.02
Crag:Soranja i kamin
Route:Kamin
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:5a
myrating:5.9
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:15
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Dubravko Vukmirovic
<dubravko@storm.hr>
<dubravko.vukmirovic@zg.tel.hr>
<dvukmir@jagor.srce.hr>
Weather:Nice and sunny on the hike in, then a spot of rain at the mountain hut. The rest of the day threatened
rain, but it remained clear.
item10:The crack opposite Spranja. Larger crack, more features deep inside. Much less direct. Rusty piton about 4/5 up as a clip before the crux(!). Spent much too long on the overhang to make the last clip, got
tired and out of form, but didn't weight the rope.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Kalnik, Croatia
item5:11.11.02
Crag:Stari Grad
Route:Blizanac I
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:4b
myrating:5.5
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:20
Partners:Climbing club
Weather:35 degrees (f), foggy/misty, snow on the ground, but no precipitation.
item10:Muddy in spots, reachy @ top. Led with pre-placed draws.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Kalnik, Croatia
item5:11.11.02
Crag:Stari Grad
Route:Rambo
type:toprope
PublishedRating:5a
myrating:5.7
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:12
Partners:Climbing club
Weather:35 degrees (f), foggy/misty, snow on the ground, but no precipitation.
item10:Nice route.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Kalnik, Croatia
item5:11.11.02
Crag:Stari Grad
Route:Bezimeni
type:toprope
PublishedRating:5c
myrating:5.9
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:16
Partners:Climbing club
Weather:35 degrees (f), foggy/misty, snow on the ground, but no precipitation.
item10:Cold at the top. Fun route, cracks to balancy slab moves at the top.
ModDate:23.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5:17.03.02
Crag:Veliki Cuk
Route:Tinkara
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:6
myrating:5.9
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:300
Pitches:6
item6:04:30
Partners:Klatsko
Weather:sunny, warm, ~19c
item10:Klatsko led P1, P3, P5
I led P2, P4, P6

Possibly 2nd ascent of route?

P2 (~5a)--easiest to do roped simul-scramble across scree between P1 and start of P2 (~25m).
route finding...avoid the thorn bushes in the grooves--pick the correct crack--work up and left slightly

P4 (6-, ~5.9)--well protected, exposed traverse left to base of dihedral/crack system
I had difficultly getting into crack--ended up doing thin face climbing up/right towards Giorgia route, about 5+m above/right of last pro in traverse--then moved left on ramp into dihedral
hard to get any pro until at crack w/in dihedral (~3m along ramp). Slow in this section.

dihedral/crack--easily protected, easy-fun (5.7+) climbing.

above crack--exposed traverse right into large water groove--protect w. large (#4?) friend @ top of groove before moving up/out to exposed face climbing (good foot holds--like
shoes!) to belay under tree in rounded pocket.

P5 (5b?) short, up grooves toward top as peak flattens out. Nice cracks.

P6 (4a) Poorly defined scrambling/climbing--friction slabs w. very little pro--3 pieces in 45m--toward link up w. Circus route

Descent--small rap down to join Circus (left webbing, but well hidden). Long walk/scramble/5.4 downclimb into Anica Cuk gully. Next time...don't do downclimb in hiking boots while wearing pack!
Almost as tough as the crux pitch--and worse fall potential!
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5: 2.02.02
Crag:Zava
Route:matane ti si car!
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:5c
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:12
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Marc Tasovac
Weather:foggy am, upper 40s/low 50s @ breakfast, warm (60+) in the sun
item10:no falls, two hangs
good, thin, smeary route
hard, but fun
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5:16.03.02
Crag:Zava
Route:matane ti si car!
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:5c
myrating:5.9+
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:12
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Branimir
Weather:sunny, warm, ~19c
item10:multiple falls @ crux

first(!) "warm up" climb after overnight bus ride w. Velebit, ~3hrs fitful sleep on the bus.

The crux is a delicate boulder move/weight shift (at least for someone my height).
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5:16.03.02
Crag:Zava
Route:Marina
type:toprope
PublishedRating:6a
myrating:5.9+
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:12
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Branimir
Weather:sunny, warm, ~19c
item10:Easier--and quite different--than adjacent "Matane ti si car!"
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5:16.03.02
Crag:Zava
Route:Zava
type:sportlead
PublishedRating:4b
myrating:5.6
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:13
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:?
Weather:sunny, warm, ~19c
item10:easy route...did it to keep warmed up...nice rythm
ModDate:24.11.02

Location:Paklenica, Croatia
item5:16.03.02
Crag:Zava
Route:Zava
type:tradlead
PublishedRating:4b
myrating:5.6
ratingsystem:FR
heightunits:m
Height:13
Pitches:1
item6:00:30
Partners:Klatsko
Weather:sunny, warm, ~19c
item10:did it as a trad lead just to get a "refresher" on placing gear. Nothing special.
ModDate:24.11.02

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