Clay's Kitchen : Sauce and Stock Recipes

Sauce and Stock Recipes

© Copyright 1995-2017, Clay Irving <clay@panix.com>, Manhattan Beach, CA USA

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Hollandaise Sauce

Servings: About 1 cup

Most historians agree that the original Sauce Hollandaise recipe originated in Normandy (a region famous for its butter and use of butter in cooking) and was first known as Sauce Isigny, after the town of Isigny in Normandy. The recipe can be found in recipe books dating from the 1800s.

At some point the recipe was renamed to Sauce Hollandaise (meaning either from Holland or Holland-style), although historians have different explanations for the recipe being renamed. One explanation is that during World War 1 little butter was produced in France and so it had to be imported from Holland, with the result that the recipe was renamed to reflect the source of the butter. Another is that Holland is well known for the quality of its butter, so the name is based on this. Unfortunately, despite general agreement that this is a French recipe, there does not seem to be a definitive answer for the reference to Holland.

The most critical stage in making Hollandaise is the initial whipping and cooking of the egg yolks. Begin by whisking the yolks and liquid (lemon juice or water) off the heat until light and frothy. Then, over the barely simmering water, continue to whisk vigorously to gently warm the yolks. They will become pale yellow and expand to three or four times their original volume.

Next, remove the yolks from the heat and begin to dribble in the warm — not hot — clarified butter. As the sauce begins to thicken, add the butter in a steady trickle. Do not let the sauce or butter cool too much as you whisk as the butter will begin to harden and thicken. Add a few drops fo warm water if this happens. If at any point the sauce looks as if is about to separate, immediately whisk in a couple of teaspoons of cold heavy cream or water. If it does separate, all is not lost: simply whisk 1 new yolk in a clean bowl, then slowly whisk this yolk into the broken sauce to re-form the emulsion [1]. The sauce must be served promptly, for it will curdle if reheated.

3 large egg yolks
1 ½ tablespoon cold water
½ cup warm — not hot — clarified butter
1 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
dash of hot red pepper sauce, optional
salt and ground white pepper, to taste

Place in the top of a double boiler or in a large stainless steel bowl set up as a double boiler — the bottom of the top of the double boiler should not make contact with the water heating in the bottom half of the double boiler.

Off the heat, whisk the egg yolks and cold water mixture until it becomes light and frothy. Place the top of the double broiler or the bowl over barely simmering water and continue to whisk until the eggs are thickened, about 2 to 4 minutes, being careful not to let the eggs get too hot. Remove the pan or bowl from over the water and whisk to slightly cool the mixture. Whisking constantly, very slowly add the warm clarified butter.

Whisk in lemon juice, hot red pepper sauce and salt and pepper. If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a few drops of warm water. Serve immediately or keep the sauce warm for up to 30 minutes by placing the bowl in warm — not hot — water.

Hollandaise Sauce au Suprême

Recipe from: Larousse Gastronomique

6 egg yolks
2 ounces (50 grams or ¼ cup) best-quality butter, plus 4 ounces (100 grams or ½ cup)
pinch of salt and pepper
pinch of nutmeg
1 tablespoon Allemande sauce
1 tablespoon chicken stock

Put egg yolks in a saucepan and add butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, Allemande sauce and chicken stock. Stir over very low heat and, as it begins to thicken, gradually add a further 4 ounces butter, taking care to stir constantly. Just before serving, pour in a little good quality plain vinegar and add a generous knob of butter.

Other Sauces derived from Hollandaise Sauce
Béarnaise Sauce Substitute a strained reduction of vinegar, shallots, fresh chervil, fresh tarragon and crushed peppercorns for the lemon juice
Royal GlaçageEqual parts Hollandaisse, Velouté, and whipped cream (medium peak, unsweetened)
Sauce Aux CapresAdd drained capers
Sauce BavaroiseAdd cream, horseradish, and thyme
Sauce Chantilly, Sauce MousselineAdd whipped cream
Sauce Creme FleuretteAdd crème fraîche
Sauce DivineFlavored with poultry glaze (glace de viande) finished with unsweetened whipped cream
Sauce MaltaiseAdd orange, orange zest and sugar instead of lemon
Sauce MikadoAdd tangerine juice and zest
Mustard Sauce, Sauce Moutarde or Sauce GirondineAdd Dijon mustard
Sauce NoisetteMade with browned butter (beurre noisette)



1 Excerpts from The Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker


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